![]() Your job, as chief grower, is figuring out what is most limiting to your plant and fixing it. Too, where a poor soil makes fertilizing something of a helter skelter proposition, good soils make it monkey easy. If you've been forever in battle with your chosen soil for control of your plants' vitality, the change that occurs when you switch to a good soil (one that allows you to water correctly, will make it seem like you have somehow done something magic. That scenario makes things easy for the grower and easy on the plant. That means I'd have to work very hard at over-watering. I use soils that hold no (or nearly no) excess (perched) water. Then, using a 'tell' as an indicator of when it's appropriate to water to put a polish on what you practice. Curing the effects of too much water in the soil starts by using a soil that doesn't hold too much water, and by default, not enough air. Occasionally it can be traced entirely to growers watering with their own version of enhanced frequency more often, it's the result of a poor soil that simply does not allow the grower to water correctly w/o the plant paying a tax in the form of diminished root health because the soil remains saturated long enough to have attained the age of majority. Necrotic leaf tips and margins are far more often than not a symptom of over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salt) in the soil solution. It doesn't LOOK like your tree is in any immediate danger of expiring, but symptoms made manifest by ongoing limitations commonly lag the cause by weeks to months. Good luck having early figs to eat!įor the most part, plants decline and die in situations where the amount of food/energy they're able to create (with the help of the sun) is less than they are expending to drive their metabolic processes. Of course you've been through this one Winter, so you're probably already aware. I wouldn't overwater, indoors, in Winter just wait 'til the container appears to be drying out from the last watering. Your fig should keep its Brebas intact (which was the question you originally asked-hope I haven't overstated the answer) if it is happy with the light and heat (and moisture) you provide it. Those who don't want to care for their fig during the Winter months-other than an occasional light watering every few weeks to keep it from completely drying out-try to locate their fig(s) where the temperature will stay below 40 degrees F, so the fig will remain dormant. If the temperature during dormancy is allowed to get very much above 40 degrees F, a fig will generally "awake" (break dormancy). Just a note (of which you may already be aware): The temperature (where the fig was located) being 51 degrres F, caused it to break dormancy early. Also, optimistically, it will set some very early main-crop figs, too. ![]() Optimistically, with good luck, you should be eating Brebas before you ever put it out of doors again. Since it has broken dormancy by January 1, you should have the earliest of starts for the coming season (if you keep it warm and well-lighted). No doubt it fulfilled its dormancy requiresments, which are relatively brief.
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